Main gear replacement

Bobby A · Hopping Maniac Joined: 16 Apr 2011 Posts: 33

Hi, I'm trying to figure out how to replace the main gear for my RC heli, when I first bought it I didn't know that the motor pinion gear and the main gear were not close enough to fit perfectly, I received a new gear in the mail today, my only trouble is removing the old gear out, they say you have to take the blades off of it to remove it, the gear has a support pin in it. Confused

tombo242 · Posted: Tue Apr 19, 2011 2:05 am Post subject:

Hi Bobby,

Without knowing the heli you have, it is not possible to say. I recall that you said somewhere, but what and where I have no idea. Help us to help you please.

Tom

Bobby A · Hopping Maniac Joined: 16 Apr 2011 Posts: 33

Well the gear is for the Exceed RC Classima 300, what happened was when I first flew, the people I bought from forgot to tighten the 2 screws that hold the brushless motor in place and what happened was the metal gear that spins the main gear was rubbing against the main gear and wore off a small bit of teeth on the main gear, this is what the main gear looks like

Trouble · Posted: Tue Apr 19, 2011 8:11 pm Post subject:

Hiya Bobby,

Ok, from what I see on the photos here you will need to remove the links from the swash plate, looks like 2 of them, one in back is the Pitch, the one on the side is aileron, remove the screw from the main gear, and pull the head assembly with the main shaft attached to it UP until it comes out of the Main Gear, (you should not have to worry about loosening the black metal lock Ring/Collar that is attached to the Mainshaft, it has one or two set screws in it, and it sits right on top of the frame and under your swashplate, it keeps the Mainshaft tight so it does not shift up and down) probably an inch or so ought to do it...one hand on the Main Gear to keep it in place while with the other hand you pull the mainshaft up and out of the Main Gear. insert the new main gear in the same position as the old one you just took out and slide the Main Shaft down and into the Main Gear until the bottom of the Mainshaft is flush with the bottom of the Main Gear, you might have to twist the Main Gear on the Mainshaft until you line up the holes to install the Main Gear retaining bolt, insert the bolt and tighten it with loc-tite, just a tiny drop. Unless you have a Nylock nut (a special type of nut that has a nylon insert in it that makes it more or less self-locking.)
After you have tightened the Main Gear onto the Mainshaft, push the Mainshaft down until the Lock Ring/Collar is against the top of the Frame...check to make sure the teeth line up correctly on the Motor Pinion and the Main Gear, you might have to loosen the Lock ring up there on top of the frame to adjust, but..probably not, you need to make sure that the Mainshaft does NOT have any up and down play in it, pull and push on it, IF it has any slack/play you will need to loosen the Lock ring and push it Down while you pull UP on the Mainshaft and keep it tight against the frame and tighten it so that the mainshaft does NOT move up and down at all! And, you are done replacing the Main gear!! I have detailed it out here so hopefully you will understand, it is waay easy to do and once you have done it it will be super easy from then on.
One last thing, I am not trying to be a smart-aleck, and we all had to learn, but NEVER assume that the factory put it together right, it is YOUR responsibilty to double check everything on your new heli...check all screws, make sure that screws that go into metal parts are loc-tighted, visually check EVERY single thing, make sure things are pointed in the right direction, that they move in the right direction, that they move easily and freely, that eveything is lined up and level, and I will give ya $10.00 bucks if the head on that heli is totally and perfectly level, Shocked

, lol. No heli comes from the factory Ready to Fly, I don't care what they said!
anyhoo, hope this helps ya out bud, good luck!

P.S. That metal gear on the motor that turns the Main Gear is called a Pinion, a pinion gear.

chopper54 · Posted: Tue Apr 19, 2011 9:18 pm Post subject: post subject

good description trouble,
you must be quick on the keyboard. it would have taken me 2 days to type all that. Embarassed

Trouble · Posted: Wed Apr 20, 2011 10:24 am Post subject:

You know me, I talk too much. I was bored, wanted to help. I am maybe a step above "hen-pecking" with the index fingers, I have to go back all the time to correct typos. Rolling Eyes

Hawzzy · Posted: Thu Apr 21, 2011 10:55 am Post subject:

Pardon me Trouble...that is a GREAT description...BUT...can i just say this...when it comes to tightening the "ring collar" so as to ensure that it is tight and that there is NO slop or slack......

i would disagree ONLY SLIGHLTY......

i would like to see it tight and then backed off 1/32-1/16 of an inch. Ive seen too many times where it WAY TOO TIGHT and the performance/longevity of the heli and battery are compromised. Like having a pinion and main gear meshed so tight they start to create drag and wear things out prematurely.

Now my experience is ALL with 3 and 4 ch helis...but correct me PLEASE if im wrong.

AS long as that 32nd of play doesnt (and won't) interfere with pinion/main gear mesh!!!!
Tye

Trouble · Posted: Thu Apr 21, 2011 11:51 am Post subject:

I'm sure you are right Hawzz, no problem. Wink

Bobby A · Hopping Maniac Joined: 16 Apr 2011 Posts: 33

Hi this is Bobby, I tried to remove the main gear a while ago, even removed the screws that hold the rotor head in place, one screw is so tight I can't budge it any, and the support pin that holds the main gear in place I tried using a tiny allen wrench to push it out but to no avail, having to rest till I get my strength back.

tombo242 · Posted: Fri Apr 22, 2011 4:36 am Post subject:

Hi Bobby,

Could be that screw is held in with red loctite. I had a Jesus bolt done that way on a 450 kit and it was not easy to remove it. Finished up with a 'mole wrench' (don't know what you might call them - clamp on with a screw to tighten the lock) and used a lot of force for a M2 screw but it did come in the end.

Re Clearance:
I would say that 1/32" is far too much you're really looking at around 0.005" (0,127mm) as a good running clearance on your gears and head. Thin paper is a good guide for this. Lots of info on how to use it on the net, or I can help as could most of us here.

Tom.

Hawzzy · Posted: Sat Apr 23, 2011 6:40 am Post subject:

Were not talking about clearance between gears as in meshing...clearance between the faces of the two gears that sit on top of one another on a co-ax heli....at least i think we are!!!!

tye

tombo242 · Posted: Sat Apr 23, 2011 7:05 pm Post subject:

If that's the case Hawzzy, you're right. I never even thought of that. The thread did start with the Exceed RC Classima 300, which is a flybar less single rotor heli definately not a co-ax!

However, my co-ax main gears are around 3mm apart (or a bit over 1/10").

Tom.

Hawzzy · Posted: Sat Apr 23, 2011 11:36 pm Post subject:

ya your right too....my weee brain is stuck in co-ax mode...in fact this week i just did the EXACT repair on my co-ax and when i saw Trouble's descr. of tightening the shaft down with NO play...thats the image that popped into my mind..... Embarassed

Definately a thread NOT about a co-ax... Embarassed

Tye

P.S. On and around my desk i have more than a dozen co-ax helis from "new in box" to various "states" of repair/disrepair........i "test and torture" a few toys from a company here in Canada.(LITEHAWK)..I also love to tinker/tear apart, fix, or modify these little guys....it was a bit of a secret for the last 6 or 7 months or so....but we just started a Forum dedicated to the Litehawk family of TOY helis and the company announced it...so i can too. Im an ADMIN and MOD on the Forum....I know its NOT your cup of tea around here guys....BUT.....toy helis are the reason ive become interested in helicopters, R/C or real...in fact they are the reason i WILL be getting into 6ch+ CP helis in the near future...sparked an interest and an opportunity to get the feet wet...at a respectable cost.

Id also like to add that i think that for outright knowledge, and SMALL community feel.....this is hands down the most informative forum ive vistited regarding ELECTRIC HELIS!!!!!!!!

Tyler

Keep up the good work.........and id like to think tht even with limited knowledge...i could still have something positive to add...if for only the SMALLER heli peoples............ Smile

Sorry again for jumping in on your post...especially when i was wrong Embarassed

....TOMBO is right about the "backlask" between gears...an old trick from my R/C cars/trucks was to use a piece of paper between the pinion and the spur/main gear....tighten motor in place and still just be able to pull the paper out without ripping it.....

tombo242 · Posted: Sun Apr 24, 2011 1:08 am Post subject:

Thanks Tye,

I'm also a moderator/admin on two forums (not this one - yet, don't think I'm needed here). You don't give a link for your forums, sounds like some of our members could benefit from them. We have quite a lot of 'toy' heli fliers here.

No Probs with jumping the thread, hey we all do it sometimes, anything to further the cause.

Tom.

Hawzzy · Posted: Sun Apr 24, 2011 6:38 am Post subject:

http://litehawk.yuku.com/directory

I think that is a link to the forum.....Its new..and targeted towards Litehawk owners and their helis...BUT...MOST of the information contained within its pages should pertain to ALL 3 and 4ch helis.

Litehawk has changed the toy heli industry....FOR THE BETTER...with customer service that is SECOND TO NONE...parts and repair support... not to mention a SUPERIOR product to begin with...IMHO!!

I just never thought of "advertising" our forum here..not to be selfish...but i kinda thought that would be rude...i dunno!!!

Tye